Bernina Pass Scenic Drive: Glaciers, a White Lake, and the Road to Tirano

The Bernina Pass (Passo del Bernina, 2328m) is the highest road pass in Switzerland that stays open close to year-round. Unlike most Swiss passes that close in October, the Bernina road often remains accessible through winter — a useful practical advantage for autumn and early winter travelers.

Three things make this drive genuinely distinctive. First, Lake Bianco at the summit: a milky-white glacial lake fed by the Bernina glacier. The colour is not a postcard effect — the water is white-grey from glacial flour, and sitting beside it feels like arriving at the edge of the world. Second, the UNESCO Bernina Railway runs alongside the road through much of the valley — you can watch the famous red Bernina Express trains crossing stone viaducts as you drive. Third, the descent ends not in another Swiss mountain village but in Tirano, Italy — a proper Italian piazza town, complete with espresso, gelato, and an entirely different pace.

This is one of the few alpine drives that crosses a genuine cultural boundary: you start in Romansh-speaking Graubünden, pass through Italian-speaking Swiss Poschiavo, and end in Italian Italy, all in 60km.

Drive from Pontresina (north) south to Tirano (Italy). This direction takes you uphill through the Morteratsch Glacier landscape, then delivers Lake Bianco at the summit as a natural arrival moment, followed by the dramatic Poschiavo descent with the Bernina Express crossing below you on the viaducts.

Afternoon light is better on the descent toward Poschiavo — if you depart Pontresina after 9am, you will have good light on the summit and excellent contrast on the valley descent.

South-to-north (Tirano to Pontresina) is the obvious return route if doing a round trip. The Morteratsch Glacier then appears at the end as a bonus — suitable as a full-day round trip from a St. Moritz or Pontresina base.

Space your stops to avoid rushing the summit and Poschiavo sections. A good structure: one stop at Morteratsch, one at the summit lake, one in Poschiavo, and the Brusio viaduct viewpoint near the Italian border.

No toll for the pass road. The Swiss motorway vignette applies only if you used the A13 or other Swiss Autobahn sections to reach Pontresina from Zurich or Chur.

The road is open close to year-round, but winter conditions above the summit require winter tires. Check rental contract terms before driving in snow. In summer, the road is smooth, wide, and well-maintained with clear pull-offs.

Fuel in Pontresina before the pass. There is no petrol station on the pass itself. Poschiavo has a petrol station on the south descent.

The UNESCO Bernina Express train schedule is published by Rhaetian Railway (RhB) online — timing your stops to see the red train on a viaduct adds a memorable visual dimension to the drive.

Pontresina is the best base and the most practical for road trippers. It is quieter and 30 to 50 percent less expensive than St. Moritz, 5km away, with excellent hotel options and easy parking. Most Bernina drives start here.

St. Moritz works for a splurge base. The access road from St. Moritz to the Bernina approach is 10 minutes and takes you through excellent Engadin valley scenery.

Lugano (2.5 hours from Tirano via Italy) is the best choice if you plan to continue south and explore the Italian Lakes before flying home from Milan.